Johannesburg, South Africa

Johannesburg

Johannesburg was founded on the gold mining industry (one of the richest in the world) and is often considered a business destination. But the city also has a mix of urban attractions, including art galleries, museums, parks and zoos.

One of the most popular attractions in Johannesburg for international visitors is a tour of Soweto, where black residents were segregated during apartheid. The actions of the residents of Soweto contributed to the downfall of apartheid, spawning activists like Nelson Mandela and Walter Sisulu. The Apartheid Museum and the Hector Pieterson Museum also tell South Africa's story.

Visitors are also drawn to the gold mining ghost city Gold Reef City. It's now a theme park and mine tour, where Johannesburg's legacy of gold mining can be explored.

In the past, visitors of Johannesburg have been told not to walk downtown after dark and to avoid carrying a purse and wearing expensive jewelry. But authorities say they are addressing the problem. Attractions are safe and many half- and full-day city tours are available.

Johannesburg countryside also has lots to offer, including craft markets, country inns, wildlife projects, dams and mountains.

Click on the links below for more about Johannesburg.

Must See or Do                    Geography                    History                    Potpourri
Sightseeing                          Recreation                   Nightlife                  Performing Arts
Spectator Sports                Shopping                       Itinerary                  Dining
Personal Safety                   Health                            Geostats                 Money
Weather                                 Communication          Transportation      Tourists Offices

Must See or Do
Johannesburg Sights—A tour of historical Soweto; a tour of the city center for a bird's-eye view of Johannesburg; the over-the-top but interesting Montecasino.

Museums—The Apartheid Museum to see the dark history of South Africa's segregation laws; the Hector Pieterson Museum to learn about the 1976 Soweto Uprising; Constitutional Hill.

Memorable Meals—Moyo for dishes from across the African continent; Gramadoelas for local South African food; meat and more meat at Carnivore.

Late Night—Blues and rock 'n' roll at the Blues Room; clubbing at Monsoon Lagoon; Bassline for great live jazz.

Walks—Interact with pachiderms at the Elephant Sanctuary at Hartbeespoort Dam; learn about South Africa's different ethnic groups on a tour of Lesedi Cultural Village.

Especially for Kids—See the only two polar bears in Africa at the Johannesburg Zoo; get the chance to pet a cub at Lion Park; watch a gold bar being poured at Gold Reef City.

Geography
Johannesburg was founded as a gold-mining city and wasn't built on a river. Mine dumps—piles of yellow sand that were excavated from the mines over the decades (although some of are being cleared away for development)—are Johannesburg's prominent feature. Once a region of bare, grassy plains, trees were planted and streets were laid out to dramatically change the landscape. It is estimated that Johannesburg now has more than 6 million trees, which in turn attract abundant birdlife.

Urban sprawl covers approximately 500 mi/1,300 km and is divided into more than 600 suburbs. These include central downtown to the south; the upmarket suburbs of Sandton, Rosebank, Hyde Park, Rivonia and Fourways to the north; the O.R. Tambo International Airport and large industrial areas to the northeast; and Soweto and its many neighborhoods to the southwest.

The N1 Highway runs past Soweto before heading through the northern suburbs, then on to Pretoria (South Africa's seat of government), 30 mi/50 km to the north. Suburbs and industries line the highway, effectively joining Johannesburg with Pretoria.

History
From 1835, the Boer inhabitants of the Cape (descendents from the early Dutch settlers of the 1600s) felt increasingly intimidated by the arrival of the British. Many thousands loaded up their ox wagons and either headed east from the Cape over the Drakensberg Mountains or northeast to the relatively untouched Highveld, an empty area of grassy, uncultivated plains. The hardy journey over mountains and across rivers still populated by wild animals became known as the Great Trek, and the Boers became known as Voortrekkers. There they set up simple farms and administered the region as the Transvaal Republic and Orange Free State. In 1886, their rural existence was shattered almost overnight by the discovery of gold, which drew prospectors, investors and fortune hunters from across the globe.

Johannesburg, named after two town planners, each with the name Johannes, grew quickly as the gold poured into the world's stock exchanges and banks. Johannesburg was a formal city by the 1920s. But life between the black mine workers, white mine managers and government officials became increasingly segregated. As early as 1913, legislation was in place prohibiting blacks from buying land in white areas.

After World War II, an economic boom in Johannesburg drew more rural Africans into the city. This fueled an Afrikaner national sentiment, and the National Party came to power in 1948 on a platform of apartheid (which means "being apart" in Afrikaans). Its policy was for a white minority to keep control of the black majority. To do this, blacks were increasingly administered under a different set of laws, and legislation against mixed marriages was passed. Black people were permitted to move freely to their place of work, but were restricted to inferior and separate living areas. If they refused to move, their homes were razed and they were forced to relocate. Every aspect of daily life between blacks and whites became segregated.

By the end of the 1980s, pressure was on for the South African government to reform apartheid policies. F.W. De Klerk became president, unbanned the African National Congress (ANC) and other opposition parties, released political prisoners, including Nelson Mandela and Walter Sisulu, and began to reform legislation. In the early 1990s, De Klerk and Nelson Mandela, newly appointed leader of the ANC, negotiated a peaceful end to apartheid, which won them a joint Nobel Peace Prize. In 1994, South Africa held its first democratic election, and the ANC won by a resounding majority. Mandela became the country’s first black president.

Potpourri
Johannesburg is known as Egoli in the local language of Sesotho, meaning "place of gold." Johannesburg has produced some 40% of all the world's gold.

Johannesburg has the world's only other Lipizzaner stallions outside the Spanish Riding School in Vienna. The beautiful white horses skip, trot and gallop in time with music.

With its millions of trees, Johannesburg resembles a rain forest on satellite images.

Tsotsi taal is a local slang unique to the townships; tsotsi means "thug," while taal means "language." It's often used in kwaito (South African rap/hip-hop). The gang-themed movie Tsosti, which was filmed in Soweto, won the Academy Award for Best Foreign Movie in 2005.

Sightseeing
Johannesburg has a diverse number of attractions for visitors. Johannesburg is the best destination in the country for museums, which cover a range of topics from culture, apartheid, gold mining, archaeology, transport and the military—even beer. Of these, the moving and world-acclaimed Apartheid Museum is worth at least a few hours to soak up the full story, whatever your knowledge of South Africa's history. Next door, learn another important part of Johannesburg's history at Gold Reef City, where you can watch a gold bar being poured or drop down a mine shaft. There's also plenty of action on the rides in the adjoining theme park.

A half-day tour of Soweto takes in the major sites and can be teemed with an African lunch in a shebeen (township pub). While there are many sights in the city center, such as the Newtown district, it is best explored on a guided combined minibus and walking tour, which usually finishes with a panoramic view of Johannesburg from the 50th floor of the Carlton Centre.

On a sunny day, Johannesburg's open spaces provide great spots to enjoy the trees and birdlife. Zoo Lake is an attractive park surrounding an ornamental lake, and across the road, Johannesburg Zoo has an extensive selection of animals in spacious enclosures. Beyond the city are tranquil and well-established botanical gardens, and an hour's drive to the north are the Magaliesberg Mountains, which are good for a country escape. The various wildlife centers offer opportunities to get close to African animals for those not going on safaris in South Africa's parks and reserves.

Casinos
Montecasino
A brash, over-the-top, but nevertheless impressive complex built on the theme of a Tuscan village. It contains a casino, skateboard park, 15-screen cinema, dinner theater and a 1,000-seat theater that is Johannesburg's largest, plus dozens of bars and restaurants. The World of Birds has a number of aviaries and a stage that hosts a free-flight show of larger birds such as owls, herons and storks. Casino open 24 hours. World of Birds open 8 am-5 pm. The casino is free to enter; attraction fees vary. William Nichol Drive, Fourways, Johannesburg. Phone 011-510-7000. http://montecasino.tsogosun.co.za.

Historic Sites
Sterkfontein Caves
Many important archaeological finds have been made in the Sterkfontein Caves, located in the Krugersdorp region about 25 mi/40 km northwest of Johannesburg. Archaeologists continue to work there, and visitors can see the site inside the caves. An information center is also available. http://www.sterkfontein-caves.co.za.

Walter Sisulu Square of Independence
Formerly Freedom Square, this is the site where the African National Congress signed the Freedom Charter in 1955 that pledged equality for all of South Africa's citizens. Once a dusty square, it was renamed after the late former president of the ANC and revamped into an attractive paved arena. It has statues representing the 10 clauses of the original Freedom Charter that today are pillars of South Africa's constitution. Union Road, Kliptown, Soweto, Johannesburg.

Museums
Apartheid Museum
This modern museum takes visitors through a series of "spaces" that document the whole story of apartheid, from Afrikaner nationalism in the 1940s and '50s, segregation between blacks and whites, the rise of black consciousness, the country's first democratic election in 2004 and the new constitution. It's a moving and vivid display of old photographs, hundreds of hours of television footage, exhibits such as passbooks and armored vehicles used by the authorities to suppress demonstrations in the townships, and symbolic features such as 121 nooses hanging from the ceiling to represent the political prisoners that were killed during apartheid. Open daily except Monday 10 am-5 pm. R25 adults, R12 children. Northern Parkway and Gold Reef Road, Ormonde, Johannesburg. Phone 011-309-4700. http://www.apratheidmuseum.org.

Constitution Hill Museum
This museum was built on the site of a notorious old jail commonly known as Number Four, which closed in the 1980s. It accommodated mostly blacks, many of whom were imprisoned for not carrying their passbooks. The conditions were crowded and appalling. Nearby is South Africa's Constitutional Court, which was built from some of the bricks torn down from the old jail. Open Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm, Saturday and Sunday 9 am-noon. R22 adults, R15 children and seniors, free on Tuesday. Kotze and Hospital streets, Braamfontein, Johannesburg. Phone 011-381-3100. http://www.constitutionhill.org.za.

Hector Pieterson Museum and Memorial
Hector Pieterson was a 13-year-old schoolboy who was shot and killed in the 1976 Soweto Uprising. Students had been peacefully marching to hand in a petition against Afrikaans being used as the primary language in education when police disrupted the demonstration by opening fire on the students. A famous photograph of Pieterson's lifeless body being carried away was flashed across the world, and he became a symbol for the contribution South Africa's youth played in the struggle against apartheid. There's a copy of the photograph hanging next to the memorial, and in the museum are photographs and television footage of that fateful day, as well as excellent exhibits on Soweto during the often-violent and tense 1970s and '80s. Around the corner is Nelson Mandela's former two-room home. Open 10 am-5 pm. R15 adults, R5 children. Khumalo and Pela streets, Orlando West, Soweto, Johannesburg. Phone 011-536-0611.

Maropeng
Maropeng, meaning "returning to the place of origin" in the Setswana language, is an interactive museum that tells the story of the creation of our world and the evolution of mankind over a 4-billion-year period. Krugersdorp region (25 mi/40 km northwest of Johannesburg), Johannesburg. http://www.maropeng.co.za.

South African Museum of Military History
Opened in 1947 to commemorate South Africa's role in World War II, the museum exhibits some 44,000 items from artillery, armored vehicles, medals and uniforms. There are more contemporary exhibits such as Umkhonto we-Sizwe, ANC's armed wing during apartheid. Open 9 am-4:30 pm. R20 adults, R10 children. 22 Erlswold Way, Saxonwold, Johannesburg. Phone 011-646-5513. http://www.militarymuseum.co.za.

Neighborhoods and Districts
City Center (CBD)
Johannesburg's CBD is not renowned for its safety, so it is best explored on an organized tour. If departing from hotels in the northern suburbs, the first place you will likely visit is Nelson Mandela's present home in leafy Houghton. Tours go downtown to some of the more impoverished and crowded neighborhoods such as Hillbrow and Rocky Street before heading to Newtown. You should also see the attractive Mary Fitzgerald Square, the Nelson Mandela Bridge and Museum Africa, and tours often stop at a nearby muti shop (African medicine). Some tours also include a visit to Constitution Hill, the museum in Hillbrow, or the 50th floor of the Carlton Centre for panoramic views of the city. Tours last approximately four hours. R290-R350. City Center, Johannesburg.

Newtown
This neighborhood lies between Quinn Street to the east and Ntemi Piliso Street to the west. Located around the attractive Mary Fitzgerald Square, attractions include Museum Africa, which has exhibits covering much of the city's history; Gramadoelas Restaurant; and Kippie's and Bassline jazz clubs. Access from the north runs over the impressive Nelson Mandela steel suspension bridge that spans more than 40 railway lines. R7 toll to cross the bridge.

Soweto
Tour operators offer half-day tours by minibus into this historical township, including visits to the Hector Pieterson Museum and Memorial, Nelson Mandela's former home, Kliptown and the Walter Sisulu Square of Independence. Some tours also include lunch at a traditional shebeen (a township bar) specializing in African cuisine, or visitors may be taken for a walk around an informal settlement (shacks), or a visit to a school or community center. Tours last approximately four hours. R290-R350. http://www.soweto.co.za.

Parks and Gardens
Johannesburg Botanic Garden
There are 365 acres/148 hectares of lovingly tended gardens on the tranquil shores of Emmarentia Dam, within the confines of the city limits and easily accessible from the northern suburbs. The Rose Garden has more than 4,500 species of roses. The Shakespeare Garden contains plants mentioned in the Bard's plays. The Water Garden has terraced ponds and fountains, and the Herb Garden is dedicated to traditional African medicine. Open 6 am-6 pm. Free. Olifants Road, Emmarentia, Northcliffe, Johannesburg. Phone 011-782-7064.

Amusement Parks
Gold Reef City
The Jozi Story of Gold is built around Johannesburg’s original 19^th-century gold mine, with a mock-up of an early prospecting town with original shops and street entertainment, from cancan girls to gum boot dancers (an early dance put on by miners to celebrate the end of their long shift underground). Visitors can also see a gold bar being poured, and the less claustrophobic can go on an underground tour down the mine shaft. The theme park has several thrill rides, including an inverted roller coaster (the Anaconda) and the Tower of Terror. Theme park is open daily except Monday 9:30 am-5:30 pm. The casino is open 24 hours. Jozi Story of Gold: R170 adults, children R70. Theme Park: R110 adults, R60 children. Family tickets available. Northern Parkway, Ormonde, Johannesburg. Phone 011-248-6863. http://www.goldreefcity.co.za.

Wineries, Breweries & Distilleries
South African Breweries (SAB) World of Beer
SAB is Africa’s largest brewery. It distributes beer across the continent and owns Miller Breweries in the U.S. The World of Beer tour takes visitors through the history of the golden nectar, the growing of hops and barley, the brewing process, and finishes with two frosty beers at the bar. Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm. R25. 15 President St., Newtown, Central Business District, Johannesburg. Phone 011-836-4900. http://www.worldofbeer.co.za.

Zoos & Wildlife
Johannesburg Zoo
Covering 133 acres/54 hectares of spacious enclosures surrounded by moats and trees, the zoo is a lovely place to spend a sunny day. It's home to more than 355 species of animals from all across the world, including the only two polar bears in Africa. The zoo is arranged in zones dedicated to the environments where its inhabitants live naturally. There are also plenty of activities for kids, including a petting zoo, and lots of conservation information published on boards. Open 8:30 am-5:30 pm (last tickets sold at 4 pm). R36 adults, R21 children. Jan Smuts Avenue, Parkview, Johannesburg. Phone 011-646-2000. http://www.jhbzoo.org.za.

Lion Park
This 500-acre/200-hectare reserve is home to more than 80 lions that live in spacious, wooded, drive-through enclosures, including a few rare white lions. Zebras, wildebeest, giraffes and antelope can also be seen in a large, grassy enclosure. At the entrance is a restaurant, curio shop and Cub World, where there may be some lion cubs for you to pick up and cuddle. Open Monday-Friday 8:30 am-5 pm, Saturday and Sunday 8:30 am-6 pm. R85 adults, R55 children. Off the R152, near Lanseria Airport, Nietgedacht (within a half-hour drive from Johannesburg’s northern suburbs), Johannesburg. Phone 011-691-9905. http://www.lion-park.com.

Other Options
Lesedi African Lodge
Located less than an hour's drive from Johannesburg on the R512 toward Hartbeespoort Dam, Broederstroom, this mock-up of a cultural village represents four of

South Africa

's ethnic groups: Zulu, Pedi, Xhosa and Basotho. The tour begins with a singing and dancing display on arrival, followed by a browse in an African craft market, a walking tour of traditional villages and more entertainment over an African feast in a thatched building. The evening tour is atmospherically lit by flaming torches. Most Johannesburg tour operators can organize transport there if you don't have your own car. Tours last approximately three hours. The morning tour begins at 11 am and includes lunch; the evening tour begins at 4:30 pm and includes dinner. Reservations required. R295 with lunch or dinner; R200 for the tour only; children are half-price. Phone 012-205-1394. http://www.lesedi.com.

Recreation
Johannesburg residents generally enjoy indoor and outdoor sports and activities. Across the city, there are more than 40 golf clubs and hundreds of sports, gyms and fitness centers. However, many facilities are membership-only venues. Your hotel may have an agreement with a local establishment for temporary membership or have its own facilities. Just about every hotel and guesthouse has a swimming pool, even if it’s just a splash pool, and public pools can be found in the larger fitness centers. Outdoor pools are open in the parks during summer. City parks may also have tennis courts. Larger parks are open to joggers and cyclists, and those with dams or lakes offer rowboats for hire. Birdwatching can be enjoyed from anywhere in the city thanks to the millions of trees.

Bowling
Galaxy World Ten-Pin Bowling
Twelve lanes, video games, pool tables and a bar. Open Sunday-Thursday 9 am-1 am, Friday and Saturday 9 am-2 am. R20 9 am-noon; R27 noon-3 pm; R29 3-6 pm; R33 6 pm-close. The Mall of Rosebank, Oxford Road, Rosebank, Johannesburg. Phone 011-447-9141. http://www.galaxyworld.co.za.

Golf
Royal Johannesburg and Kensington Golf Club
These two 18-hole courses, a par-72 and a par-71, were established in 1909. The club frequently hosts the South African Open, which famous South African golfer Gary Player has won on numerous occasions. Facilities include a driving range, putting green and clubhouse. Open 7 am-1 pm to visitors. R380 Monday and Tuesday, R400 Wednesday-Friday. Carts are an additional fee. Fairway Avenue, Linksfield North, Johannesburg. Phone 011-640-3021.

Nightlife
Johannesburg's nightlife is typical of any modern city. There are trendy cocktail bars, large-scale dance clubs, fashionable hotel bars, grunge hangouts and lively shebeens in the townships. Many of the restaurants and cafes get more alcoholic and crank up the tunes as the evening wears on.

Many venues are located in shopping malls, and the casino complexes also have bars and clubs. There are several live-music venues, especially for jazz. The local version of hip-hop/rap, called kwaito, is popular on dance floors. Melville is the place to go for a bar crawl, where a block of streets is home to many little laid-back bars, restaurants and cocktail lounges. Melrose Arch and Nelson Mandela Square are the places to go to people-watch. The busiest night for going out is Saturday, though Wednesday is popular, too. Friday is a popular day for Jo'burg residents to meet up for drinks after work.

Bars, Taverns & Pubs
Catz Pyjamas
One of Melville's oldest bars, located in a rambling old house with a wide upstairs wrought-iron balcony.The atmosphere buzzes in the evening when shooters, cocktails and late-night snacks such as nachos and pizza make the rounds. It also has good breakfasts and light meals during the day. Open 24 hours. Corner of Third and Main, Melville, Johannesburg. Phone 011-726-8596. http://www.catzpyjamas.co.za.

Cool Runnings
Jamaican and reggae-themed bar with murals on the walls, palm trees in the garden and private cubicles for groups. It offers snacks such as chicken wings, nachos and potato skins, and a long line of cocktails. Open daily noon-late. R30 Sunday past 8 pm for live comedy. Melville, Johannesburg. Phone 011-482-4789. http://www.coolrunnings.co.za.

Horror Cafe
You will find bars and dance floors on three floors decorated with horror-film memorabilia, photographs and movie props. A Continental menu in the restaurant, regular DJs, live music and comedy nights. Open Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-late. 15 Miriam Makeba St., Newtown, CBD, Johannesburg. Phone 011-838-6560.

Katzy's Bar
This is a very stylish and sophisticated New York-style cigar bar with subtle lighting, comfortable sofas, brick walls, cocktails, and a full range of whiskies and brandies. As the bourbon flows, a DJ spins contemporary blues and jazz to liven things up from 10 pm. An older but very trendy crowd. The nearby bar in the Park Hyatt Hotel on the other side of the shopping mall is also a popular venue. Open daily except Sunday 5:30 pm-1 am. The Firs, Oxford Road, Rosebank, Johannesburg. Phone 011-447-5162.

Radium Beer Hall
This is an old-fashioned and very atmospheric pub, with a long wooden bar that is more than 100 years old—the original from Johannesburg's first hotel. Memorabilia of Johannesburg's early years decorates the walls. Pub grub has a Mozambique influence in such offerings as peri-peri prawns. It has beer on tap, and regular blues and jazz performances. Open daily except Sunday 10 am-midnight. R50. 282 Louis Botha Ave., Orange Grove, Johannesburg. Phone 011-728-3866. http://www.theradium.co.za.

Dance & Nightclubs
Monsoon Lagoon
Johannesburg's biggest and best nightclub with several dance floors and bars, VIP lounges, professional dancers on podiums, local and international DJs, large projection screens and impressive technical wizardry that re-creates falling snow, lightning or a trembling volcano. Smart dress code. Open Wednesday-Saturday from 9 pm. R50 Wednesday-Friday (less for women), R70 Saturday. Emperor's Palace Casino, 64 Jones Road, Kempton Park, Johannesburg. Phone 011-928-1000. http://www.monsoonlagoon.co.za.

Taboo
This very stylish and glamorous nightclub attracts a sophisticated clientele on themed party nights. It has two dance floors, several bar and lounge areas, cocktails and champagne. Visit its Web site for details and bookings. Open Friday and Saturday from 10 pm. From R150. 24 Central, Sandton (corner of Fredman Drive and Gwen Lane), Johannesburg. Phone 011-783-2200. http://www.taboo.co.za.

Live Music
Back ‘O the Moon
A quality casino-restaurant with live traditional and contemporary jazz, and dinner and dancing. It has a long menu of grills and seafood on a set menu at a good value. Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. R25. Gold Reef Casino, Northern Parkway, Ormonde, Johannesburg. Phone 011-496-1423. http://www.backofthemoon.co.za.

Bassline
Johannesburg’s most established live jazz club has the capacity for 1,000 people. It features regular performances from South Africa’s top jazz musicians and visiting groups from overseas, and also hosts local kwaito artists. A smaller venue and bar is popular for comedy acts. 10 Henry Nxumalo St., Newtown, CBD, Johannesburg. Phone 011-838-9145 for information; 011-838-9145 for tickets. http://www.bassline.co.za.

Blues Room
An atmospheric American-style restaurant and bar with a varied menu, cool, low-blue lighting, blues memorabilia on the bare-brick walls and a small dance floor. Live music nightly from 7 pm, mostly blues but also rock ‘n’ roll. Open Tuesday-Saturday. R50-R60 cover. Village Walk, Sandton (corner of Rivonia and Maud streets), Johannesburg. Phone 011-784-5527. http://www.bluesroom.co.za.

Performing Arts
Johannesburg has a number of performing-arts venues across the city, and it also hosts various annual arts festivals. The Civic Theatre in the City Center hosts opera and mainstream theater including imported musicals. The Market Theatre in Newtown shows series plays, and community and dinner theaters host everything from revues and cabaret to stand-up comedy and pantomime.

Johannesburg's largest theater is at Montecasino, which seats 1,900 people and was built to accommodate a lavish local production of The Lion King.

Performances of traditional African singing and dancing can be seen at popular tourist attractions. These include the Rosebank African Craft Market, Gold Reef City and Lesedi Cultural Village.

Film
Cinemas are found in shopping malls and typically have multiple screens. The two cinema chains in Johannesburg are Nu-Metro and Ster-Kinekor.

Music
Live music is popular in Johannesburg, especially jazz, and among the younger generation, kwaito, a kind of township hip-hop. South Africa is becoming a popular tour stop for big-name musicians, and its stadiums now host rock and pop stars such as Robbie Williams and U2.

Kippies International Jazz Club
Kippies occupies a former milling factory. There’s a stage, bar and restaurant, and regular live jazz. Corner of Carr and Quinn streets, Newtown, CBD, Johannesburg. Phone 011-856-1805 for information and tickets. http://www.kippies.co.za.

Soweto Gospel Choir
This 26-person-strong gospel choir is incredibly powerful. The Grammy-Award-winning choir has performed throughout the world and draws on the best talent from churches across Soweto. When they are not on tour, they regularly perform in the city. Johannesburg Civic Theatre, Soweto, Johannesburg. Phone 011-802-6527. http://www.sowetogospelchoir.com.

Theater
Market Theater Company
The Market Theater Company was founded in 1976, and during apartheid, was known for its controversial performances that had a strong antiapartheid protest element. Today, the theater, which is housed in the city’s old fruit and vegetable market, has a charming atmosphere and promotes new South African writers, directors, actors and designers. Visit its Web site to see who’s performing. 56 Margaret Mcingana St., Newtown, CBD, Johannesburg. Phone 011-832-1641, ext. 4 for information and tickets. http://www.markettheatre.co.za.

Ticket Brokers
All tickets for performing arts can be booked online through national booking system Computicket, which also has kiosks in all the shopping malls. http://www.computicket.com.

Venues
Civic Theater
Three auditoriums showcase a variety of performances from opera, ballet and gospel choirs, to pantomime, musicals and plays. A coffee shop serves light meals and theater bars. The South African Ballet Company is based there. Loveday Street, Braamfontein, CBD, Johannesburg. Phone 011-877-6800 for information and tickets. http://www.showbusiness.co.za.

Liberty Theater on the Square
This is a friendly, 200-seat theater for comedy, plays, musicals and lunchtime concerts. The venue is centered among many good restaurants. R100 for tickets. Nelson Mandela Square, Sandton City, Johannesburg. Phone 011-883-8606 for information and tickets. http://www.at.artslink.co.za.

Spectator Sports
South Africans are sports-mad, and the most popular events are rugby, football (soccer) and cricket. When an important match is on, everything else seems to stand still. Many restaurants and bars have wide-screen TVs, and Saturday afternoons are especially popular and social.

All tickets for spectator sports are booked online through national booking system Computicket, which also has kiosks in all the shopping malls. http://www.computicket.com.

Other Options
Ellis Park
This is the principle stadium for South African rugby. The national team, the Springboks, play at Ellis Park regularly. With a capacity of 60,000, it will host one of the semifinals in the 2010 FIFA Soccer World Cup. The complex's smaller stadium is home to the popular Johannesburg soccer team the Orlando Pirates. Corner Currey and Staib streets, Doornfontein, Johannesburg. Phone 011-402-8644. http://www.ellispark.co.za.

Wanderers Cricket Stadium
This is one of the world's best cricket stadiums. It seats 34,000 and was fully refurbished when Johannesburg hosted the 2003 Cricket World Cup. Illovo neighborhood, Johannesburg. Phone 011-340-1500 for information, 011-340-1509 for tickets. http://www.wanderers.co.za.

Shopping
Johannesburg has a wide variety of shopping options for visitors. Items to look for include a diverse range of African art and curios from across the continent, beaded jewelry, wooden sculptures, baskets, masks, drums, cloth, local paintings, sculptures, and items crafted from wire and other recycled materials (usually made by local people living in the townships). These are sold in galleries, upmarket souvenir shops, and flea and curio markets. The best of these is the African Craft Market in The Mall of Rosebank, though there are several others around the city.

Johannesburg's Fresh Produce Market, offering fresh fruits and vegetables, attracts some 10,000 shoppers from all over southern Africa each day.

There are more than 20 mega-shopping malls around Johannesburg that feature South African chain stores, supermarkets and entertainment facilities such as cinemas and bowling alleys. These include Sandton City in Sandton, the Mall of Rosebank, Rosebank and Hyde Park Corner, and Craighall, all in the northern suburbs. Most are quite luxurious with a superb collection of international brands, designer boutiques, and gold and diamond stores. Diamonds and gold are good buys in South Africa.

Other shops of note are The Brightwater Commons, and Fourways, Cresta and Eastgate malls. Since the malls include banks, post offices, restaurants and cafes, you could easily spend the whole day shopping in one.

Dotting around the suburbs are smaller malls catering to the needs of the local community, though some specialty shops can be found at these, too.

Shopping Hours
Standard shopping hours are Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm and Saturday 9 am-1 pm. Malls usually have longer hours, generally Monday-Saturday 9 am-5 or 6 pm, Sunday 9 am-1 pm.

Department Stores
Thrupps
Opened in 1892, Thrupps, "the grocers of distinction," is Johannesburg's oldest shop, although it's moved locations from its original site on President Street from when Johannesburg was an early mining town. Today, it's an emporium of fine food and wine sourced both locally and from all over the world. Find deli items, seafood, caviar, smoked salmon, Italian hams and cheeses and French champagne. There's also an excellent butcher's shop where you can get a quail or goose. Thrupps imports original Gentleman's Relish from the UK. Open Monday-Friday 7:45 am-6 pm, Saturday 8 am-2 pm, Sunday 9 am-1 pm. Illovo Centre, corner of Oxford and Rudd roads, Illovo, Johannesburg. Phone 011-268-0298. http://www.thrupps.co.za.

Galleries
Kim Sacks Gallery
Although African curios can be found at the markets, Kim Sacks Gallery has carefully selected top-quality art pieces, many from acclaimed African artists. The shop is a treasure-trove of beautiful hand-made cloth, prints, polished wood and metal statues, ceramics and antique furniture. Kim is on hand to explain the origin of items and can organize international shipping. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Sunday by appointment. 153 Jan Smuts Ave., Parkwood, Johannesburg.

Markets
African Craft Market
The African Craft Market houses former street stalls, now all under one roof. You can pay by credit card, and international shipping is available. Two levels of stalls are crammed with souvenirs from all over Africa, and there's a wonderful selection of wood carvings, including the infamous giraffes. Also find colorful cloth and beads, drums, masks, stools, bowls, baskets and tribal clothes. You might be there for an impromptu display of traditional singing and dancing. On Sunday, the mall's car park becomes an additional rooftop market. Open daily 9 am-6 pm. Corner of Cradock and Baker streets, The Mall of Rosebank, Johannesburg. Phone 011-880-2906. http://www.craft.co.za.

Market World Bruma
A huge market with some 600 stalls selling everything imaginable, including African curios and famous brands at knockout prices. You can change foreign currency there, and there are plenty of fast-food joints and tasty Indian snack stalls. Open daily except Monday 9:30 am-5 pm. Corner of Marcia and Ernest Oppenheimer roads, Bruma, Johannesburg. Phone 011-622-9647. http://www.brumamarketworld.co.za.

Shopping Areas
Oriental Plaza
A cross between a mall and a market, it is most reminiscent of an Indian bazaar. It is tightly packed with 360 shops and stalls selling every imaginable import from Asia. Reams of fabric, kitchen utensils, cheap clothes and shoes, and electronics. Look for the stalls selling spices and tasty Indian snacks. Open Monday-Saturday 8:30 am-5 pm (Saturday till 2:30 pm). Margaret Mcingana Street, Fordsburg, Johannesburg. Phone 011-838-6752. http://www.orientalplaza-fordsburg.co.za.

Specialty Stores
Musica Megastore
It is part of a national chain that sells CDs, DVDs and games, but the largest and best branch is Johannesburg's Musica Megastore. There's a full range of international commercial and world music, and it has a comprehensive range of South African artists from popular rock bands and kwaito to gospel and Afrikaans. Open daily 10 am-10 pm. Zone@Rosebank, The Mall of Rosebank, Oxford Road, Johannesburg. Phone 011-788-9613. Toll-free 0860-687-422. http://www.musica.co.za.

Young Designers' Emporium
This unique South African store works to encourage young fashion designers. You will find great clothes, jewelry, lingerie, swimwear and accessories for both men and women. Open Monday-Thursday and Saturday 9 am-6 pm, Friday 10 am-7 pm, Sunday 10 am-5 pm. Nelson Mandela Square, Rivonia Road, Sandton City, Johannesburg. Phone 011-883-8812. http://www.yde.co.za.

Itinerary
Day Trips
To Pretoria. South Africa's capital city of Pretoria is also known as Jacaranda City, thanks to the beautiful mauve flowering petals of the thousands of jacaranda trees that line the city's streets.

A day tour covers Pretoria's historical sights. The Union Building is an impressive sandstone complex built in 1913 as the seat of South Africa's government and the site where Nelson Mandela made his famous speech after being inaugurated as president in 1994. Around Church Square are some early 19th-century banks and government offices surrounding a statue of Paul Kruger, former president of the Transvaal from 1880. In the Melrose House, which is now a museum, the Treaty of Vereeniging was signed in 1902 to end the Anglo-Boer War.

The most impressive structure in Pretoria is the Voortrekker Monument, a 430-sq-ft/40-sq-m sandstone cube built in 1949 on a hill overlooking the city. It's a monument to Afrikaner history and the Great Trek, when thousands of Voortrekkers made their arduous way by ox wagon from the Cape to the Transvaal in the 1830s. Inside are 27 marble friezes depicting the story. You can climb to the top of the monument for great views.

Most of Johannesburg's tour operators offer four-hour tours of Pretoria for about R400 per person. The city is currently undergoing a name change, and in the future it will be known as Tshwane, meaning "we are all the same" in a local language. 31 mi/50 km from Johannesburg's northern suburbs.

To Hartbeespoort Dam and the Magaliesberg Mountains. Hartbeespoort Dam is a lovely country region surrounded by the Magaliesberg Mountains. The lake at Hartbeestpoort is created by a dam built on the Crocodile River, which cuts through the mountains. The best way to explore is by hiring a car for the day to enjoy the scenery, birdlife, country markets and teashops. The region is supported by an excellent tourism initiative, the Magaliesberg Meander, which provides a list of attractions, and maps can be picked up at the tourist offices in the region. http://www.magaliesmeander.co.za.

There's a zoo on the lake's edge at Hartbeespoort, though it's fairly old-fashioned. More worthy wildlife projects to visit include the Elephant Sanctuary (phone 012-258-0423; http://www.elephantsanctuary.co.za), which has a number of daily programs that let you interact with six tame elephants. You can walk through the bush with them, hold their trunks or even go for a short elephant-back ride through the bush. The De Wildt Cheetah Farm (phone 012-504-1921; http://www.dewildt.org.za) offers visitors the rare opportunity to get up-close-and-personal with one of Africa's most impressive big cats, and it's an important center for cheetah conservation and breeding. Tours visit the enclosures, and guides tell you all about the genetics of the cheetah. If there are cubs, it may be possible to pet one. Other resident species include brown hyena, wild dog, suni antelope and the rare Egyptian vulture. 37 mi/60 km northwest of Johannesburg.

To Sun City and the Pilanesberg Game Reserve. Sun City is South Africa's miniature Las Vegas. Adjoining Sun City is Pilanesberg, one of the country's best game reserves. Both can be visited on a long day trip by car or with a tour operator (about a 10-hour trip), or stay overnight in either a glitzy Sun City resort hotel or a rustic safari lodge in the reserve.

Sun City has a range of facilities including a casino, a man-made lake for a variety of watersports, two championship 18-hole golf courses, a crocodile farm, a bird sanctuary, a gym and spa, 10-pin bowling, a cinema, and numerous swimming pools and sports activities. The Valley of the Waves has a white-sand beach, a large pool with a wave machine and waterslides. Despite being built in the middle of dry bush, the impressive 61-acre/25-hectare man-made tropical forest is a lovely addition to the resort, with creepers, orchids, giant trees and flowering shrubs. There are a number of peaceful paths to walk.

Pilanesberg covers 2,202 mi/5,502 km of typical African bush studded with acacia trees and grassy plains. It's home to the Big Five—lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and rhino—as well as a full range of African animals and birds. Visitors have a good chance of seeing a number of the Big Five in just a few hours on a game drive. The park was built in the 1970s, and animals were relocated there from all over southern Africa by a hugely ambitious and successful project called Operation Phoenix. In the center of the park is Mankwe Dam, home to hippos and crocodiles, and at various locations, walk-in hideaways have been built at water holes for a bird's-eye view of the animals going to drink. For more information, visit http://www.suninternational.com/resorts/suncity and http://www.pilanesberg-game-reserve.co.za. 87 mi/140 km northwest of Johannesburg in the Northwest Province.

To the Cradle of Mankind. The region is dubbed the Cradle of Mankind thanks to thousands of humanoid and animal fossils unearthed in recent decades. The 1,802-mi/4,702-km area was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. Full-day tours take in the Sterkfontein Caves, Maropeng and often the nearby Rhino and Lion Nature Reserve for a game drive. Expect to pay around R900 for a tour. http://www.cradleofhumankind.co.za. Krugersdorp region, 25 mi/40 km northwest of Johannesburg.

Local Tours
Johannesburg offers a number of interesting day tours. These cover museums, the city center, Soweto and other townships, and attractions such as Gold Reef City. On all of them, knowledgeable tour guides give visitors the low-down on the city's history. There are dozens of good tour operators that run half-day or full-day tours, often combining at least two attractions with the added benefit of a running commentary. For example, a combined guided day trip to both Soweto and the Apartheid Museum gives visitors a fascinating insight of how this period of South African history affected Johannesburg. Any hotel can recommend a tour operator, or you can find a comprehensive list on the city's Web site, http://www.joburg.org.za/tourists/tours.stm. Expect to pay R270-R350 for a half-day tour.

Dining
Dining Overview
Johannesburg has a wealth of excellent restaurants, and just about every world cuisine is offered. Because of South Africa's love of shopping malls, many restaurants, bars and coffee shops are located there, but many have outside seating and extended hours after the shops have closed. One of the best malls to eat at is Nelson Mandela Square in northern Sandton City. It has a superbly attractive and atmospheric piazza lined with some of the city's best restaurants. A giant, bronze statue of Mandela smiles over diners at the alfresco tables. Not far from there, the Mall of Rosebank has a number of good eateries along its tree-lined streets. Melrose Arch has another square lined with trendy spots, and Hyde Park Corner Mall has some excellent restaurants among its luxury boutiques.

The large casino complexes feature a variety of restaurants, dinner theaters and food courts, and many of the top hotels have a range of places open to nonguests.

There are a few distinctive restaurant districts where a variety of establishments cluster on one or two streets, making them ideal places to wander up and down until something catches your fancy. These include Melville, where restaurants and dozens of small bars line a block of streets, the roundabout on Gleneagles Road in Greenside, and many streets in Parkhurst and Parktown North. These restaurant districts are all located in the northern suburbs.

Johannesburg's Chinatown is east of the city on Derrick Avenue in Cyrildene. A line of mostly unnamed and very cheap restaurants decorate themselves with red lanterns and dead ducklings. These restaurants serve up delicious, authentic food.

Price Key
Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on dinner for one, not including tax, tip or drinks: $ = less than R100, $$ = R100-R200, $$$ = R201-R300, $$$$ = more than R300.

Local and Regional
Gramadoelas
This Johannesburg gastronomic institution opened in 1967. Tables are arranged under chandeliers, the walls are adorned with African art and antiques, and the service is impeccable. It specializes in South African traditional cuisine such as smoked snoek (a popular local fish), babotie (a mince curry topped with egg custard), braised beef with pap (mealie porridge), mopani worms (a type of caterpillar) and ice cream with prickly-pear sauce. Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Monday for lunch only. Closed Sunday. Reservations required. Smart-casual dress code. $$$. Most major credit cards. Market Theatre Complex, Margaret Mcingana Street, Newtown, Johannesburg. Phone 011-838-6960. http://www.gramadoelas.co.za.

Moyo
Gorgeous contemporary African decor is spread on five floors and an alfresco terrace, with billowing tents and large leather sofas. Ladies sing while they wash your hands, and musicians stroll among the tables. Dishes are from all over Africa: Nigerian soups, Moroccan tajines, Mozambique piri-piri seafood, Egyptian salads, Ethiopian stews and South African potjies. There are other branches in Zoo Lake Park and next to Market Theatre in Newtown, but Moyo at Melrose Arch is the original and still the best. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 5 The High St., Melrose Arch, Johannesburg. Phone 086-100-6696. http://www.moyo.co.za.

Wandi’s Place
A popular spot for lunch on guided tours of Soweto, this shebeen (township bar) has been going strong since 1991, and the affable Wandi Ndaba is still in charge. Dining is sociable, and tour groups sit at long, wooden tables. Dishes are typical township staples such as boerewors (spicy South African sausage), hearty stews, tripe, oxtail, rice and dumplings, followed by simple childhood desserts of jelly, custard and fruit salad. Daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. 618 Makhalamele St., Dube, Soweto, Johannesburg. Phone 011-982-2796. http://www.wandies.co.za.

Cuisines
Asian
Benkei
The restaurant has a modern decor of big glass windows and black granite, with a long sushi bar. Or eat at the tepanyaki counter. Sushi platters are a good value, or try hot tuna or salmon steaks, or an oyster shooter—a shot of saki with Tabasco, a spring onion and an oyster. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. Smart-casual dress code. $$. Most major credit cards. 7 Illovo Square, 3 Rivonia Road, Sandton, Johannesburg. Phone 011-268-6622.

Bukhara
Known as the best Indian restaurant in Johannesburg, Bukhara has a stylish, dark-wood interior, Indian art on the ochre-colored walls and fresh flowers. Delicious north-Indian food is cooked by a busy team of chefs who diners can watch through a glass partition. The butter chicken and tandoori lamb chops are big favorites. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations required. Smart dress code. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Nelson Mandela Square, Rivonia Road, Sandton City, Johannesburg. Phone 011-883-5555. http://www.bukhara.com.

Cranks
A reliable and affordable restaurant with metal tables spilling outside. Very popular for its range of cocktails, Asian beers and shots of Schnapps, as well as excellent, freshly prepared Thai and Vietnamese food. Steaming plates of noodles and crisp greens, and green and red curries are a good choice for vegetarians. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Lower level, The Mall of Rosebank (corner Cradock and Baker streets), Johannesburg. Phone 011-880-3442.

French
Auberge Michel
An award-winning restaurant under the leadership of an experienced French chef. Light and airy with white linen and silverware, and a modern-art decor. The menu is seasonal, but expect light French dishes (no heavy sauces) such as roasted trout with mint and nutmeg, duck with apricots or braised oxtail with horseradish sauce. Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Monday and Saturday for dinner only. Reservations required. Smart dress code. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 122 Pretoria Ave., Sandown, Johannesburg. Phone 011-883-7013. http://www.aubergemichel.co.za.

Italian
Osteria tre Nonni
Old-style Italian bistro with a good selection of Italian and French wines, as well as South African labels. It has a wooden deck, indoor fireplace and friendly hosts. A full selection of antipasti, homemade pasta with creamy sauces, veal, fish and chicken, and trustworthy tiramisu for dessert. Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for lunch only. Reservations recommended. Smart-casual dress code. $$$. Most major credit cards. 9 Grafton Ave., Craighall Park, Johannesburg. Phone 011-327-0096. http://www.osteriatrenonni.co.za.

Breakfast and Brunch
Fournos Bakery
Bakers there work throughout the night to produce a vast range of breads, pastries, cakes, quiches and pies. Menus feature generous and good-value breakfasts, deluxe sandwiches, spit-roasted chicken and beef Portuguese rolls (pregos). An ideal spot for brunch with a weekend newspaper at a table in the sun. Inside is a full deli counter of imported meats, cheeses and ready-made gourmet meals. Monday-Friday 7 am-6 pm, Saturday 7 am-4 pm, Sunday 7 am-2 pm. $. Most major credit cards. Dunkeld West Centre, Dunkeld West (corner of Jan Smuts Avenue and Bompass Road), Johannesburg. Phone 011-325-2110. http://www.fournos.co.za.

Cafes and Tearooms
L'Epis Dore French Bakery
A simple bakery and cafe with wooden tables and a stone floor. It offers delicious French pastries, eclairs, crepes, croissants and gooey cakes, plus baguettes, sandwiches and breakfasts. If you phone ahead, it can put together picnic to take to the nearby Johannesburg Zoo or Zoo Lake Park. Open Monday-Friday for breakfast, lunch and early dinner, Saturday and Sunday for breakfast and lunch. $. Most major credit cards. Corner of Jan Smuts and Welles avenues, Parkwood, Johannesburg.

Tashas Cafe
A small cafe with plenty of tables in a shopping-mall courtyard. It is a trendy spot for brunch or afternoon tea. Tasty paninis, old-fashioned hotdogs, cakes and cheesecake, and unusual breakfasts such as creamed black mushrooms with poached eggs, rocket and parmesan. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and early dinner (Sunday till 4 pm). $. Most major credit cards. 16 Atholl Square, Sandton (corner of Katherine and Weirda Roads), Johannesburg. Phone 011-884-0365. http://www.tashascafe.com.

Coffeehouses
Buzz 9
This place offers a range of coffees, smoothies, burgers, baguettes, salads, pastas and to-die-for nachos and chocolate brownies. The stylish café has fat sofas and bright primary colors, and turns into a trendy bar-lounge as the evening progresses. Open daily from 9 am. $. Most major credit cards. 9 Seventh St., Melville, Johannesburg. Phone 011-726-2019.

Continental
Browns of Rivonia
A well-established and popular restaurant. Dine in the wine cellar surrounded by more than 30,000 bottles or in the pretty garden next to the koi pond. It is best-known for its cheese room, where you can choose your own platter. It has a varied menu of game meat, seafood and duck. Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner only, Sunday for lunch only. Reservations required. $$$. Most major credit cards. 21 Wessels Road, Rivonia, Johannesburg. Phone 011-803-7533. http://www.browns.co.za.

La Bella Terrasse and Loggia
Beautiful dining room with chandeliers, sweeping drapes and crystal. The restaurant has stunning views over northern Johannesburg from the terrace. The cozy, wood-paneled Polo Lounge is a lovely spot for a nightcap. It has a very high standard for food—this is the place to enjoy foie gras, caviar, lobster and truffles. Afternoon tea is very special, too, and the Sunday brunches are legendary. Daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. Smart dress code. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Westcliff Hotel, Jan Smuts Avenue, Johannesburg. Phone 011-481-6000. http://www.westcliff.co.za.

Pomegranate
One of many good restaurants in Melville, located in an old house with no more than two or three tables in each room. There's no menu, and details of dishes are reeled off by waiters in a mouth-watering way. Begin with soup, salad or the famous tomato tart, followed by changing meat and vegetarian dishes, and polish it off with chocolate pancakes or cheesecake. Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday and Monday for dinner only. Closed Sunday. Reservations recommended. Smart-casual dress code. $$. Most major credit cards. 79 Third Ave., Melville, Johannesburg. Phone 011-482-2366. http://www.pomegranatesa.com.

Thyme Out Bistro
An intimate and cozy bistro on Greenside's popular restaurant strip where the owner might play the piano if he feels like it. Trusted favorites include caprese salad and baked Camembert, followed by lamb shanks in red wine or Cajun-style grilled fish. Finish with cheese, chocolate desserts or creme brulee. Open Monday-Saturday for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Sunday for breakfast and lunch. $$. Most major credit cards. Shops 9 and 10, Village Walk Shopping Centre, 125 Greenway Road, Greenside, Johannesburg. Phone 011-486-0214.

Vilamoura
An up-market hotel and restaurant specializing in Portuguese cuisine and seafood. The décor is in pale creams, gold and candlelight. It holds occasional dinner-dances. It is a good venue for a romantic dinner. Oysters, fragrant prawn curries, grilled sardines and lobster thermidor are featured on a very long menu. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations required. $$$. Most major credit cards. Sandton Sun Hotel, Sandton (corner of Fifth and Alice roads), Johannesburg. Phone 011-884-0306. http://www.vilamoura.co.za.

Seafood
Cape Town Fish Market
Johannesburg’s branch of South Africa’s best-known seafood restaurant offers seafood in any way imaginable and a very long wine list. Sushi bar, oysters, old-fashioned fish-and-chips, or seafood curries. Alternatively, make up a seafood platter from the display in the chilled fridges or pick crayfish from the tank. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Shop 21, Rivonia Road, Sandton City, Johannesburg. Phone 011-884-8529. http://www.ctfm.co.za.

Steakhouses
Butcher's Shop & Grill
This place dubs itself the red meat and red wine capital of South Africa, and deservedly so. Grab a melt-in-the-mouth fillet with a delectable sauce washed down with a fine South African pino or merlot, all while people-watching from the terrace overlooking Nelson Mandela Square. Choice cuts of meat are available to take home from the butcher, and the bar is a comfortable option for a postdinner brandy and cigar. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations required. Smart-casual dress code. $$$. Most major credit cards. Shop 30, Nelson Mandela Square, Sandton City, Johannesburg. Phone 011-784-8676. http://www.thebutchershop.co.za.

Carnivore
Meat-lovers should head to Carnivore for its generous set menus of all kinds of meat roasted on spears over a central fire pit. Start with soup, and then waiters slice meat on to your plate until you tell them to stop. Sauces and salads accompany each meat, and there’s dessert if you can fit it in. Reservations required. $$. Most major credit cards. 69 Drift Blvd., Muldersdrift, Johannesburg. Phone 011-950-6061.

Personal Safety
Although crime has improved a little in recent years thanks to extra policing and CCTV cameras, overall it is still a problem in Johannesburg. Visitors should be vigilant to avoid falling victim to the wide range of crimes committed there, including robbery, theft and carjacking. These may often occur at gunpoint. Visitors should never travel alone in South Africa, especially after dark. Traveling in groups of three or four is strongly advised, as is keeping to well-lit, public places such as shopping malls and restaurants. Unaccompanied women should be especially vigilant. Take note of safe locations (police and fire stations, hospitals and malls, to name a few) as you travel. Avoid carrying nonessentials and valuables. Use your hotel safe and don't flash expensive jewelry, watches and cameras.

An area to avoid is the city center, or CBD. It should be avoided altogether at night, and visited during the day only on a guided tour. The exception to this is the Newtown district, where many restaurants, theaters and jazz clubs are located, though you should still get a taxi directly to and from your venue.

The townships too, should only be visited on a tour. If you are driving from one side of the city to the other, it's best to get local advice on the best route to take to avoid certain suburbs. Stick to the main freeways even if they are an indirect route to your destination.

Health
Johannesburg poses no unusual risks, although it's always a good idea to be up-to-date with basic immunizations such as tetanus and polio when traveling. If arriving from a yellow-fever-infected region, then proof of a yellow-fever immunization is required to enter South Africa. The water is safe to drink, and standards of hygiene are high.

Health care in Johannesburg is of a very good standard in the private clinics. Medi Clinic has branches across the city, but the cost of treatment must be paid in advance. http://www.mediclinic.co.za. Comprehensive travel insurance is essential, preferably with repatriation back to your home country in the event of an emergency.

Disabled Advisory
In general, Johannesburg is fairly disabled-friendly. Most modern hotels have specifically designed rooms for wheelchair users, some sightseeing places and shopping malls have disabled parking and are accessible, and a few attractions have been designed with wheelchair users in mind. For example, the museum at Constitution Hill and Johannesburg Zoo are accessible. O.R. Tambo International Airport has trained staff and is fully equipped. However, it's always a good idea to phone ahead for information about facilities and accessibility.

Public transport is not wheelchair-friendly, though some rental agencies have cars with paraplegic hand controls. http://www.avis.co.za and http://www.hertz.co.za.

For more information, visit the Quad/Para Association of South Africa at http://www.qasa.co.za. Endeavour Safaris is a local operator that can arrange tours of South Africa for the physically impaired. http://endeavour-safaris.com.

Geostats
Passport/Visa Requirements: Most travelers to South Africa do not require a visa, including visitors from the U.S., Canada, European Union countries, Australia and New Zealand. A three-month entry stamp is issued on arrival.

Population: 3,254,000.

Languages: South Africa's 11 offical languages are Afrikaans, English, Ndebele, Northern Sotho, Sotho, Swati, Tsonga, Tswana, Venda, Xhosa and Zulu. English is the predominant language of education and business..

Predominant Religions: Christian, Islamic, Hindu.

Time Zone: 2 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+2 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed.

Voltage Requirements: 220 volts.

Telephone Codes: 27, South Africa; 011,Johannesburg;

Money
Currency Exchange
The exchange rate of the South African rand (R) has been fairly stable against international currencies. It is the strongest currency in southern Africa, with other neighboring countries pegging their own currency with the rand's position on the market. The rand can be used interchangeably with currencies in Namibia, Lesotho and Swaziland.

Cash and travelers checks are easily changed in banks and currency-changing agencies, but expect to pay a fee. The best exchange rate is often found with ATMs, although your home bank may charge a fee for the transaction.

All credit and debit cards can be used in South Africa's ATMs. There is often a daily limit on the amount you can withdraw from a foreign card, but if you go into the bank and make a transaction over the counter, the daily limit is considerably more.

ATMs are prolific. Every shopping mall has several, as well as large supermarkets, smaller convenience stores and most petrol stations. Note: In South Africa, fuel can only be paid for in cash and not by credit card, but because of this, most stations have an ATM.

Crime at ATMs can be a problem. Never let anyone look over your shoulder and never accept help using the ATM. If possible, choose an ATM within the confines of a mall or cubicle, or one with a security officer on duty, rather than one along the street.

Banking Hours
Banking hours are generally Monday-Friday 9 am-3:30 pm, Saturday 9 am-11 am. Banks have longer hours in the large shopping malls, and a few are open on Sunday. Banks are busy on the last Friday of every month (payday).

Taxes
A 14% VAT is charged on goods and services. Foreign tourists are entitled to a VAT refund upon departure from South Africa. VAT refund desks can be found at all international airports and borders. This applies to unused good exported from the country, but not for services rendered.

Keep all receipts to be shown and stamped against purchases by customs officials. At the airport, this can be done in the departures hall, allowing you to repack your goods before check-in. Once you are airside, show the stamped receipts at the VAT desk to receive a refund. For more information about the procedure, visit http://www.taxrefunds.co.za.

Tipping
Tipping is usual practice in South Africa. A 10%-15% tip is the norm for good service in a restaurant and for tour guides if they have been interesting and informative. Tip R10-R20 for a bellhop. R2-R5 is about right for a car guard (a common practice that provides hundreds of thousands of jobs in South Africa), who will watch over your car if it's parked in the street. At filling stations, attendants fill up your car with fuel, wash the windscreen and, if desired, check your oil, water and tire pressure. A small tip of R5-R10 is suggested for the service.

Weather
Johannesburg has a moderate climate. The summers (November-February) are warm and wet, and winters (June-August) are cool and dry. The coldest months are July and August, when there are occasional cold snaps and frosts at night, but little to no rain and clear sunny days. The summer months receive long days of sunshine and reach temperatures of 85 F/30 C, but it is also when the region gets rain, though this is normally a short but heavy outburst of showers in the afternoon. Spring and autumn are mild, and the best times to appreciate the city's trees, which blossom in spring and turn to a russet brown in Autumn. Johannesburg can be visited year-round.

What to Wear
Casual, comfortable clothes at all times are the norm. Only businesspeople need to wear a light suit or formal shirt at the least. Restaurants prefer smart-casual attire, but no dining establishment is formal enough for a jacket and tie. Warm clothes are essential in July and August, when you may have to ask for an extra blanket in your hotel. A lightweight raincoat is needed in summer to dodge the occasional shower. Johannesburg is at a fairly high altitude (5,750 ft/1,753 m) above sea level, so sunscreen is advisable year-round.

Communication
Internet Access
Free Wi-Fi can be found at the airport, large coffee shop chains such as Mugg & Bean and News Cafe, and the larger hotel chains such as Intercontinental, the City Lodge Group and Protea. Accessibility continues to increase. Most other hotels and guesthouses offer wireless, and you pay for a top-up card at reception. Alternatively, they often have business centers or at least one terminal where guests can use the Internet. Internet cafes are found in all the shopping malls and Vodacom cell-phone stores. Visit http://internetcafedirectory.co.za for locations.

Mail & Package Services
There are post offices all over Johannesburg, and every shopping mall has one. Postnet, located in most shopping malls, offers private mail and business service. In most malls you will find major international courier companies as well as local ones.

DHL
International packages generally take three working days. The Web site offers a branch locater, Johannesburg. Phone 011-921-3666. Toll-free 0860-345-000. http://www.dhl.co.za.

FedEx
International packages generally take three working days. The Web site offers a branch locater, Johannesburg. Phone 011-923-8000. Toll-free 0809-953-9599. http://www.fedex.com.

Postnet