 |
||
|
|
Durban
Must See or Do
 Sights—The
Golden Mile, which actually stretches 40 mi/64 km from the
Umgeni River to the Point; rickshaw-pullers on the
beachfront in their colorful attire; 60-100 surfers at the
Bay of Plenty.
Museums—KwaMuhle Museum; the Campbell Collections. Memorable Meals—Natal curry at the Ulundi restaurant in the Royal Hotel; Mozambique prawns or langoustines at the Famous Fish Company on Durban's harbor; bunny chow from any number of city takeaways. Late Night—Afro-jazz at the BAT Centre; cocktails at Bean Bag Bohemia on Windermere Road in the Berea. Walks—Strolling at sunrise along the Golden Mile; walking through the Durban Botanic Gardens; meandering among the dozens of vendors and crafts markets along Marine Parade on the beachfront. Especially for Kids—uShaka Marine World; roller coasters, swings and bumper cars at FunWorld; the Wave House, Skate Park and "world's highest indoor climbing rock" at Gateway Theatre of Shopping; miniature golf, just south of the Umgeni River. GeographyDurban is situated on the southwestern seaboard of South Africa, bordered by the Indian Ocean on the east and by the Drakensberg mountains to its west, and to the south lies the Atlantic Ocean. There are two main streets that lead to
and from the Durban beachfront, which is the place that
holds the most interest for visitors. West Street runs to
the beachfront and Smith Street leads away. Residential
neighborhoods ring the city center, and the Berea, in
particular, is one that appeals to many tourists. The Berea
is the range of hills on the inland side of Durban. It's
home to artists and craftspeople. Considerable archaeological evidence suggests that the Durban area was extensively occupied during the first millennium AD. White settlement on Durban's harbor began in the early 1820s when a band of traders, led by Lt. Francis Farewell and James King, made their way by ship from the Cape. Durban was part of the empire of the Zulu King Shaka, who had used his exceptional military talents and diplomacy to weld disparate clans and tribes into a nation in the early 19th century. In 1824, the white settlers secured a land grant from Shaka and named the harbor settlement Port Natal. The tiny trading settlement grew as more people arrived from the Cape, and in 1835, it was renamed after Sir Benjamin D'Urban, then governor of the Cape Colony. The settlers believed they owned the land granted to them by Shaka. However, Shaka considered them governors of his territory. Land disputes in South Africa are just as contentious today. Around this same time period, a large group of Boers (South Africans of Dutch and French Huguenot extraction) was breaking away from British rule in the Cape. In 1837, they crossed the Drakensberg mountains in their wagons in search of fertile land. Shaka's successor, Dingane, first attempted to accommodate the trekkers, but then tried to annihilate them. In 1843, the British annexed Natal, and 1849 marked the start of large-scale immigration from Britain to Natal. The next group to arrive in Durban was composed of indentured Indians from India. They were shipped there to cut cane on sugar plantations, because the British hadn't yet found ways to coerce the Zulus, traditionally cattle herders, into working for them. The Indians arrived in 1860 on the Truro and Belvedere, and a headline in the local white press announced that "the coolies" had arrived. As time passed, the plight of blacks—African, Indian and coloured (mixed-race people)—grew worse. A 1922 clause in a municipal ordinance restricted the sale of land owned by the city council to whites only. (Nevertheless, the 1940s' wartime economic boom years brought thousands of Africans into the city, despite the myriad hardships they endeavored to call Durban home.) By 1958, the screws of injustice tightened even more when the city council put its Group Areas plan into operation. According to this plan, whites would gain nearly 3,000 acres/1,214 hectares of prime city land from Indians—uprooting more than 75,000 Indians and some 8,000 coloureds. Also by the late 1950s, pass laws and labor legislation became stricter and more severely applied. From then onward many thousands of Africans became subject to daily harassment, arrest, eviction from the city and jail. In the 1970s and '80s, Durban experienced strikes, violent protests and massive damage to property, as the black majority sought to break the back of the strict system of segregation known as apartheid. The conflicts marked a new period in politicization within Durban's townships and also between the aligned forces of the African National Congress (ANC) and the Inkatha Freedom Party, the party of the Zulu people, who sought a federalist system of government. In 1990, the first mass rally officially organized by the ANC since it had been banned in 1960 took place in Durban, foreshadowing an end to apartheid. Nelson Mandela addressed the crowd. Then in 1994, South Africa held its first all-race democratic elections and elected Mandela as president. He cast his vote in a settlement just outside Durban, near the grave of the first president of the ANC. A decade after that first democratic
election, Durban continues to forge ahead in its efforts to
reconcile the past with the present. Shaka, the founder and king of the Zulu nation, was named after an intestinal beetle. Shaka's father, the Zulu chief Senzangakhona, was reluctant to acknowledge that Nandi, Shaka's mother, was pregnant. Instead, he blamed her swelling on the beetle, iShaka. In 1889, at the age of 16, Malukmohammed Lappa Sultan arrived in Durban from India to work for the Natal Government Railways as an indentured laborer. Once his indenture was over, he became a successful businessman and prominent philanthropist in the Indian community. The M.L. Sultan Technical College in Durban is named for him, as well as nine primary schools and three secondary schools. Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi, later called Mahatma, the "great soul," came to Durban in 1893 from England. His arrival marked the beginning of a 21-year relationship with South African Indians that eventually led to the liberation of India and a philosophy of passive resistance that shaped the lives of millions. A favorite Durban expression is "Howzit?," which means "How are you?" Other words you might find useful during your stay include sawbona (hello), sala kahle (stay well), hamba kahle (go well), siyabonga (thank you) and yebo, which is a catch-all term that, depending on the context, can mean "yes," or "what's up?," or someone may say it simply to acknowledge your presence, sort of like when you pass a stranger and give a nod
Sightseeing
 Durban, a city of more than 2 million, bills itself as
the "Playground of the Zulu Kingdom." Your understanding
of the Zulu people, both past and present, will be
broadened by a visit. Shaka Zulu, the founder of the
Zulu nation, remains a powerful symbolic figure there,
and you might catch a glimpse of the present-day Zulu
king, Goodwill Zwelithini. He occasionally attends
meetings at (where else?) the Royal Hotel. Built in 1845
and granted royal appointment in 1860 by Queen
Victoria's second son, Prince Alfred, the Royal can
count among its guests Cecil John Rhodes, Mark Twain,
Margaret Thatcher and Nelson Mandela.
If you're interested in learning about the country's apartheid era, stop in the Kwa-Muhle Museum. Learn about the enforced carrying of passes by all African men, and from 1952, African women older than 16. Some of Durban's incredible diversity
can also be sampled at the Jumah Mosque (largest in the
Southern Hemisphere) and Hindu temples. And strolling
along the Golden Mile will give you even more insight
into the cultural hodgepodge that makes up this part of
South Africa. Contact the Ocean Sailing Academy (phone 301-5726) and the Durban Board Sailing Association (phone 337-4069) for information about sailing and windsurfing. Or, if you're interested in learning how to surf, the Surf and Adventure Centre on uShaka Marine World Beach is set up to work with beginners (phone 082-902-5672). But for those who want to enjoy a slower pace, consider exploring the Umgeni River by canoe (phone 201-1303). Also, about 30 minutes south of
Durban, in Umkomaas, is the spectacular Aliwal Shoal
Reef, which has been consistently rated as one of the
world's top 10 dive sites. There, you'll find corals and
sponges, dolphins, stingrays, ragged-tooth sharks and
turtles. Iscathamiya is associated with a quiet, rhythmic step, and the uniformity of the movement has to have a soft touch or step, called isibebhu in Zulu. The best-known exponents of iscathamiya are Ladysmith Black Mambazo, the group that shot to international prominence from its collaboration with Paul Simon. Maskanda developed during the '50s and '60s when Zulu men, who worked as gardeners in white suburban areas, would walk along the streets to meet their friends, carrying a cheap guitar over their shoulders. They would strum repetitive tunes, and whistle along or sing stories in Zulu about their homes in faraway rural areas. Some might recall that the "white Zulu," Johnny Clegg, performed this musical style in the 1970s as Juluka. If you get the chance, do treat
yourself to performances that feature these unique
styles of music. If you have young children, chances are the Catalina Theatre will have something on stage to entertain them as well as you. Wilson's Wharf, Victoria Embankment, Durban. Phone 305-6889 Dockyard Supper Theatre Dockyard relocated from the Point Waterfront. It now has two stages, two bars and a balcony overlooking both stages. Musgrave Road (in the Musgrave Centre in the Berea area), Durban. Phone 201-9147. Elizabeth Sneddon Theatre This theater features musicals, opera, drama and performances by students at the University of KwaZulu-Natal, Howard College Campus, as well as three annual international festivals. It seats 400. Princess Alice Drive (on the Berea), Durban. Phone 260-2296. KwaSuka Theatre This is an intimate theater in a renovated church. Founded by professor Pieter Scholtz, the cozy venue seats 110 patrons. The theater opened in 1996 and has a courtyard for outdoor performances as well as a coffee shop and bar. 53 Stamford Hill Road, Greyville, Durban. Phone 309-2236. The Playhouse Situated in the heart of the city, the Playhouse has five performing-arts theaters showcasing a range of contemporary and classical works. 231 Smith St. (corner of Smith and Acutt streets), Durban. Phone 369-9555. Venues BAT Centre The BAT (Bartel Arts Trust) celebrated its 10th anniversary in 2005. Established with funds left by an eccentric Austrian millionaire who was fascinated by South African arts and culture, the BAT Centre is one of the city's premier venues for live music, visual arts and restaurants. There is live music on the deck every Friday and Sunday, featuring up-and-coming local bands that play maskandi, Afro-jazz, folk, drumming and hip-hop, as well as other genres such as rock and reggae. This artsy hangout is also one of the few places in Durban where you'll see different ethnic and racial groups mingling with ease. Victoria Embankment (small craft harbor), Durban. Phone 332-0451. http://www.batcentre.co.za. ICC Durban Arena Everything from international concerts and theatrical productions to boxing, wrestling, tennis and equestrian events are held in this air-conditioned venue, which accommodates audiences of up to 10,000. Located on the south side of the International Conventional Centre building on Commercial Road, the arena is not far from the beachfront or the central business district. Check the Web site for upcoming events. 45 Ordnance Road, Durban. Phone 360-1000. http://www.icc.co.za. The Center for Jazz and Popular Music Music starts at 5:20 pm, and there is a cash bar. Campus of the University of KwaZulu-Natal. Directions to the center: Travel along South Ridge Road, turn right onto Queen Elizabeth Avenue and take the first left onto 75th Anniversary Avenue—UKZN Gate No. 2. Continue until you come to a traffic circle—Jazz Centre (sundeck on left) with Shepstone Student Car Park (on right). Note: UKZN Gate No. 2 shuts at 5:20 pm, after which time you should use main UKZN entrance Gate No. 1. Phone 260-3385. Spectator Sports Durbanites are sports fanatics. Soccer is the most popular sporting event, played by the Durban-based Rangers. The Kings Park Stadium, where soccer matches have been in the past, has been leveled to make room for the new King Senzangakhona Stadium. The old and new stadium grounds are located about a mile/kilometer from the Durban beachfront. There's also rugby, played by the Natal Sharks, and cricket played by the Natal Dolphins. Horse racing is also big in Durban,
and there are two racecourses in the heart of the city.
All of these spectator sports draw large crowds of
dedicated fans. This is where the annual Vodacom Durban July takes place. First run in 1897, this event attracts some 50,000 spectators, and all go ready for a good joll (Afrikaans for party). Phone 314-1651. Shopping Zulu beadwork, baskets and artifacts, 18k and 24k gold jewelry, and intricately designed fabrics worn as saris are what you'll want to shop for in Durban. The city is home to world-class
shopping malls and upscale flea markets. At the BAT
Centre, which overlooks the small craft harbor in
Durban, you can see artists working in their studios.
For great fabrics of all kinds, the best place to shop
is along Grey Street in the city center. But don't go
alone. This is an area that you'll definitely need a
local to help you navigate, for safety reasons and
because no matter how skilled you think you are at
bartering, you're no match for the Grey Street
merchants, many of whom have operated family businesses
there for decades. Situated in the leafy suburb of Glenwood, this nonprofit gallery features a gift shop, the Arts Cafe, where you can eat light meals, and the sleek modern lines of an ever-changing gallery. The gallery runs three exhibitions at any one time—in the Main Gallery downstairs, and the Mezzanine and Park galleries upstairs. The focus is on giving good local artists an opportunity to showcase their work, but there are international and national exhibitions as well. The unique treasures you'll find at the gift shop are very reasonably priced. Tuesday-Friday 9 am-5 pm, Saturday 9 am-4 pm, Sunday 10 am-5 pm. 166 Bulwer Road, Durban. Phone 202-3686. http://www.nsgallery.co.za. Markets Amphimarket The Amphimarket takes place every Sunday on Durban's north beach, and it's a great place to find clothing, handmade beadwork, crafts and artwork. Phone 301-3080. Beachfront Market If you head for Marine Parade on the beachfront, you can't miss this market, which is a series of small stalls run mostly by women selling a variety of ethnic goods and curios, everything from Zulu shields to the odd plastic, made-in-China Slinky toy (or rather Slinky knockoff). Marine Parade on the Golden Mile, Durban. Essenwood Craft Market The upscale Essenwood Craft Market takes place every Saturday 9 am-2 pm in Essenwood Road's Berea Park. Phone 202-5632. Stables Market The Stables "Lifestyle Flea Market" is Durban's only moonlight market. No one knows for sure, but it must be the only market in the world that is converted in June and July of each year from boutique stalls to horse stables for the annual yearling sales. The market is divided into eight lanes, each named after a winning horse. Arts and crafts, antiques and collectibles, ethnic art, home decor, fashion and fashion accessories—it's all there, along with intercontinental food stalls that serve everything from Mongolian cuisine to Mauritian. Great place to take children. Wednesday and Friday 6-10 pm, Sunday and public holidays 10 am-5 pm. Jacko Drive (off Goble Road, next to ABSA Stadium), Durban. The Victoria Street Market The best advice we can give about the Victoria Street Market is go, but only in a group and with a reputable, registered tour guide provided by agencies such as Durban Africa. You really don't want to miss an opportunity to experience the wonders in this Indo-African market, which is home to 170 stalls. You can buy just about anything there, from traditional Indian garments and exquisite brassware to genuine African carvings and stunning diamond and gold jewelry. Traders and stall owners are always upbeat and ready to haggle. Many businesses are family-owned, passed down from generation to generation. Be sure to tell your guide to take you downstairs and show you some "walkie-talkies"—sheep head and feet. You can't miss the market. Bound by Russell, Queen and Victoria streets, the massive building has cream, green, pink and purple arches, spires and towers. Monday-Friday 6 am-6 pm, Saturday 6 am-2 pm, Sunday 10 am-2 pm. Buses leave from the Tourist Junction (160 Pine St.) at 9:45 am and return at 12:30 pm. Cost is R25 per person, and advance booking is essential. Phone 306-4021. Shopping Areas Gateway Theatre of Shopping The Gateway at Umhlanga is the largest shopping complex in the Southern Hemisphere. There, you'll find 290 retail stores, 24 cafes and restaurants, an IMAX theater, a performing-arts theater (the Barnyard), a 10-lane bowling alley, an interactive science center for children and adults, a 78-ft/24-m indoor climbing rock and an 18-screen movie theater. The Wave House is another big draw at the Gateway. It features the biggest stationary wave in the world, as well as the biggest skate park in South Africa, designed by nine-time world skateboarding champ Tony Hawk. It's a safe place to hang out at night, too. Monday-Thursday 9 am-7 pm, Friday and Saturday 9 am-9 pm, Sunday and public holidays 9 am-6 pm. R20 for parking. No. 1 Palm Blvd. (Umhlanga Ridge New Towne Centre), Umhlanga Rocks. Phone 566-232. http://www.gatewayworld.co.za. The Pavillion With its Victorian-glazed domes as a familiar landmark, the Pavillion is one of the largest and most popular shopping centers in South Africa. It is visited by more than 1 million people per month. Monday-Saturday 9 am-6 pm, Sunday 9 am-5 pm. Jack Martens Drive (adjacent to the N3 near Westville), Durban. Phone 265-0556. http://www.thepav.co.za. Itinerary Day Trips To Amanzimtoti. The naming of Amanzimtoti is generally attributed to Shaka Zulu. He was passing through the area with his army on one of his campaigns and stopped to rest. He was brought a calabash filled with water from the river. He sipped the water and said: Kanti Amanz'amtoti—"so the water is sweet." Amanzimtoti has sweeping beaches, and many of them are quiet stretches with dunes and rock pools. There are also designated launching areas for ski boats and areas set aside for surfers. To get there, take the N2 south from Durban for about a half-hour and watch for the exit signs. http://www.amanzimtoti.org.za. To Phoenix Settlement in Inanda. Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi arrived in Durban on 23 May 1893, beginning a 21-year association with South Africa. In June 1893, he was forcibly ejected from a first-class railway carriage in Pietermaritzburg. He identified this as a crucial event in his life. In 1904, he founded the settlement at Phoenix; this was his attempt to start a utopian society and train followers in the way of satyagraha, or nonviolent struggle and soul force. Not far from the Gandhi settlement, which has a printing press, library and museum, is the grave of John Dube, the first president of the African National Congress. And not far from Dube's grave, former South African President Nelson Mandela cast his vote in 1994 in the first democratic elections in South Africa. Also in Inanda is Ebuhleni, location of the Shembe church. Every July, the faithful of the Holy Church of Nazareth Baptists gather at the Inanda citadel for a month of worship, dance and celebration, in the last remaining echo of an African reformation. The church has tens of thousands of adherents, and tours to the site are available and well worth a visit, if for no other reason than to see Zulu men dancing in Scottish kilts and pith helmets. To Umhlanga. This coastal city is 15 minutes north of Durban, and its Zulu name means "Place of Reeds," in reference to years gone by when reeds were washed down to the beach by the Ohlanga River. Umhlanga has beautiful, protected swimming beaches. It's a favorite place of swimmers, surfers and boogie-board enthusiasts. It also has numerous restaurants, pavement cafes and nightclubs, and the mega Gateway Shopping Theatre. For nature lovers, there's the scenic Umhlanga Lagoon Nature Trail and the Hawaan Forest, a unique indigenous woodland area that has remained in its natural state for centuries. Guided walks through the lagoon are offered at 9 and 11 am every Thursday (meet guides behind the Breakers Hotel). Also, if you walk along the promenade, you won't miss the large red-and-white Umhlanga Lighthouse, which was completed in 1954 and is still in use today. To The Valley of a Thousand Hills. A spectacular landscape with undulating hills—seemingly thousands of them, as the name suggests—awaits you in this area. Also within the area is Phezulu, a re-created Zulu village where traditional dances are performed and high-quality crafts are for sale. Do stop to have breakfast, lunch or tea at the Robb Roy Hotel. The view is magnificent. The Valley of a Thousand Hills is 35 mi/56 km west of Durban. To Ixopo. Anyone who's read the opening lines of Alan Paton's seminal work, Cry, the Beloved Country, the novel that first introduced many in the world to the injustices of apartheid, will want to visit this traditional Zulu town. Although Paton wrote Cry, the Beloved Country in 1948, the landscape hasn't changed much. His words still ring true: "There is a lovely road that runs from Ixopo into the hills. These hills are grass-covered and rolling, and they are lovely beyond any singing of it. The road climbs seven miles into them, to Carisbrooke; and from there, if there is no mist, you look down on one of the fairest valleys of Africa." Ixopo doesn't have much to offer visitors other than its natural beauty and a quaint shop or two where you can get a cup of tea, but we found that to be more than enough. To Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Park. About 110 mi/175 km northeast of the city lie two of the oldest wildlife sanctuaries on the continent, which combined are known as Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Park. These game reserves are easily accessible by road and are home to white and black rhinos, elephants, big cats, buffalo and a colorful assortment of birds. (Allow at least two days to add this side trip.) Ukhahlamba-Drakensberg Park. About 110 mi/175 km northwest of the city are the magnificent mountainous ranges of the Ukhahlamba-Drakensberg Park. Ukhahlamba is the Nguni name for "barrier of spears" and Drakensberg is the Afrikaans name for dragon mountains. Formed 150 million years ago from violent volcanic activity that threw up gigantic chunks of basalt rock, the Drakensberg forms a natural mountain barrier more than 9,840 ft/3,000 m high. Hikers will enjoy the berg, with its well-marked trails. One-day trips are available, or take a major excursion with nights spent in caves adorned with San rock paintings. On the park's northern fringe is the Royal Natal National Park, which features a natural amphitheater through which the Tugela River cascades 2,800 ft/850 m in a three-step fall. Greater St. Lucia Wetland Park.
This vast unspoiled area is a World Heritage Site, and
at its heart is the 93,900-acre/38,000-hectare Lake St.
Lucia, which is connected to the sea by a narrow
estuary. You'll spot hippos, crocodiles and other
mammals there. Also, the fishing is excellent, both
offshore and in the estuary. For an in-depth and unusual insight into the city, join a city walking tour with an experienced, registered tour guide from Durban Africa, the city's tourism marketing authority. The Oriental Walkabout takes in the Jumma Mosque, the historical Grey Street business area, and the Ajmeri and Madressa arcades, which are filled with spices, exotic fabrics and bric-a-brac. The Historical Walkabout takes in the City Hall, Vasco da Gama clock, the Dick King Statue and Farewell Square—home to more monuments than any other square in South Africa. Tours need to be booked at least a day in advance through the offices of Durban Africa at either the Tourist Junction, the Joe Kools building on Lower Marine Parade or Durban International Airport. Phone 304-4934. http://www.durban.gov.za/eThekwini. Isle of Capri Offers day and evening harbor cruises. Located at the end of Point Road, Durban. Phone 305-3099. http://www.isleofcapri.co.za. Sari Marais Pleasure Cruises Deep-sea and educational tours of the Durban harbor are offered by this cruise operator. Mini-bay cruises leave every 60 minutes from the harbor for a duration of 45 minutes (first trip starts at 11 am), provided there's a minimum of six passengers. Deep-sea cruises start at 3 pm in season. Gardiner Street Jetty (Victoria Embankment). Phone 305-4022. Dining Dining Overview In Durban, the cuisine is as diverse as the population. You'll find Portuguese, Moroccan, Greek, French, Japanese, Chinese, Thai, Italian, Mexican and German eateries, among others. But Natal curries are what this city is best known for, and no visitor should leave without tasting some of the local Indian delights. Durban is said to have the largest population of Indians outside of India, and their presence has greatly influenced the local appetite. Curries can be mild, hot, very hot or "exterminator" hot, and unless you're accustomed to pungent foods, we suggest you tell your server "mild, please." While there, try breyani (a specialty offered at many restaurants), samosas (three-sided, deep-fried triangles with spicy curry fillings) and roti (a flat, round pancake-type bread). If you're lucky enough to get invited to lunch or dinner at the home of an Indian family you know, definitely accept the offer. You will experience a feast fit for royalty, as Indians are known for putting on a big spread. And don't be surprised if your hosts eat with with their fingers: It's common. "Bunny chow" is a favorite local dish, eaten with your fingers, and it's unique to Durban. As the story goes, bunny chow got its start during the apartheid era when blacks were not allowed to be seated inside restaurants, but could be served takeaways from a back window of restaurants. An innovative restaurateur got the idea to scoop out the middle of a half-loaf of white bread, fill it with curry and replace the inside as a lid. Today, bunny chow is a staple food of students, surfers and laborers, as it's tasty, filling and inexpensive. Bunnies come in halves and quarters and can be found at many takeaways. Not surprisingly, fresh seafood
features prominently on area menus, with langoustines
and prawns from Mozambique among the most popular dishes
offered. And in the past few years, several restaurants
serving traditional African fare have opened in the
city. Try pap,
which is made from maize meal (Africa's staple food);
mogodu
(dumplings), umqushu
(tripe), samp and beans, smiley's (boiled sheep's head),
amadumbe
(a potatolike tuber),
morogo (African spinach)
and always inyama
(meat). Ulundi is the place to go to taste the Durban version of traditional Indian dishes, and it's done so with elegance and style. Impeccable service. This is the place to go when you're not hurried and have ample time to sit and savor your meal. All of the curries served there, especially the prawn curry, are excellent. Open daily. $$$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 267 Smith St., Durban. Phone 333-6000. http://www.theroyal.co.za. Cuisines Asian Amaravathi Palki Don't try to pronounce the full name of this restaurant, which is hidden upstairs in a narrow building on Musgrave Road; just remember Palki (prounounced PAL-key). This place is not much to look at, the decor is kind of basic and worn and not all the waitstaff speak English fluently, but the food is excellent. Vegetarians will find a bounty of selections on the menu, and there are plenty of meat dishes, too. Open Tuesday-Sunday for lunch and dinner, Monday for dinner only. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 225 Musgrave Road, Berea, Durban. Green Mango Finding good sushi is not so easy in Durban. Fortunately, Green Mango and its chef Roger Watchara Sirvajanakul are filling the gap. Sushi, sashimi and Thai dishes are featured on the menu at this stylish restaurant. Open Monday-Friday for lunch, Saturday for lunch and dinner. $$-$$$. Avonmore Centre, Ninth Avenue (in the Morningside area of Durban), Durban. Phone 312-7054. Jaipur Palace When we dine at Jaipur Palace, we always opt for the R89.95 buffet, which is great value for the variety of fine North and South Indian curries served there. This place is plush, with great Indian decor, and there are side rooms that allow for more intimacy if you don't want to sit in the main dining area. Open Sunday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner only. $$. Most major credit cards. Suncoast Casino, beachfront, North Durban, Durban. Phone 563-0287. http://www.jaipurpalace.co.za. Saagries Saagries, a favorite among foreign visitors, serves superb Southern and Northern Indian cuisine. Open Monday and Wednesday-Saturday for lunch, daily for dinner. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Holiday Inn Marine Parade, Durban. Phone 332-7932. Italian Marco's This is the place to go to find fresh pasta and other Italian cuisine. Chef/owner Luciana Conte named the place for her son, Marco, and she cooks like an adoring mother, putting her heart into every dish. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for dinner only. $$$. 45 Windermere Road, Greyville, Durban. Phone 303-3078. Roma Revolving Restaurant Years after a first visit to this revolving restaurant on the top floor of John Ross House in central Durban, we can't remember the meal we ordered, but we definitely remember the breathtaking views we saw of the bay and beachfront. Opened in 1973, Roma holds claim to the only revolving restaurant in the Southern Hemisphere, and both its windows and floor revolve. The Italian cuisine there is quite good, too. Roma is especially known for its top-quality veal. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. $$$-$$$$. John Ross House, 32nd Floor, Victoria Embankment, Durban. Phone 337-6707. Mexican Taco Zulu Somehow the words taco and Zulu don't seem to go together. But the owners of this bright, trendy restaurant seem to have reconciled the two. The food there is not exactly authentic, but it's good and very reasonable. You won't find any surprises on the menu. It's typical Mexican fare—quesadillas, tacos, flautas, burritos, enchiladas, etc. $-$$. 237 Florida Road (in the Morningside area), Durban. Phone 303-9584.
Waterfront Restaurant and Terrace
Breakfast is seldom memorable, or savored. But memorable it is, when served on the terrace of the Waterfront Restaurant of the Balmoral Hotel on the Durban beachfront. There's nothing quite comparable to starting the day with a traditional English breakfast—eggs, sauteed mushrooms, beans, halaal bacon, bangers (sausage), a slice of grilled tomato, a basket of hot toast with a full complement of butter and jams, and your choice of fresh-brewed coffee or tea with hot milk—served on a white tablecloth with the Indian Ocean in full view. The restaurant also offers a breakfast buffet in case you prefer a wider selection, which includes lighter fare such as cereal and yogurt, or fresh fruit. Whichever you choose, and if it's not too hot and the weather is otherwise agreeable, sit outside on the terrace as opposed to inside. There, you'll get a snapshot of Durban life as it whisks by. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $$-$$$. 125 Marine Parade, Durban beachfront, Durban. Phone 368-5940. Continental St. Tropez Located in an old electricity substation, St. Tropez features a large range of pizzas and other Mediterranean dishes. If it's a nice night and the bugs are not biting, sit outside next to the park. Jazz on Sunday. Open daily 7 am-9 pm (Monday till 4 pm). $$-$$$. Located at the corner of Essenwood and Berea roads in the Berea area, Durban. Phone 201-9176.
Yossi's
Middle Eastern and North African dishes such as lamb tangine are offered at this restaurant, which vegetarians will love. Live music Wednesday and Friday nights. Open Tuesday-Saturday 9 am till late, Sunday 10 am till late. $$$. 127 Davenport Road (in the Glenwood area), Durban. Phone 201-0090. Seafood Charlie's Croft Try to get a window/deck table if you go to this waterside restaurant on the Durban harbor. The menu features seafood and, well, more seafood, with a reasonably priced wine list. $$$. Most major credit cards. Wilson's Wharf, Durban harbor, Durban. Phone 307-2935.
Famous Fish Company
Langoustines, prawns, oysters and all things seafood are served in a nautical setting at the Famous Fish Company. The wonderful harbor view is free. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 3-9 Kings Battery Point, Durban. Phone 360-1060. http://www.thefamousfishco.com.
Ocean Basket
Generally, we don't recommend chains or takeaways, but this one deserves mention. Ocean Basket offers diners an excellent selection of fresh seafood at exceptionally reasonable prices and with consistently good service. You will find Ocean Basket restaurants at uShaka Marine World on the beachfront (phone 337-0356), at the Pavillion shopping center (phone 265-1627) and in Umhlanga (phone 561-6103). Open daily for lunch and dinner. $$.
The Brasserie
Located in the stately, historic Edward Hotel, which opened in 1909, The Brasserie is famous for its seafood and Mediterranean buffets. It has an extensive a la carte menu that features everything from T-bone steaks and filet mignon to African cuisine such as inyama yegusha nama quebelengwara (mutton casserole on the bone with chakalaka and dumpling; chakalaka, for lack of a better description, is sort of like chow chow, a hot relish found in the American South). But it's the buffets, particularly the one featuring seafood, that gets high marks for sheer selection. Offered are tiger prawns, langoustines, mussels, salmon, squid, crayfish tails, crab, fresh linefish, seafood salads and casseroles, and more. The atmosphere in the Brasserie can be a bid stodgy. It has an elegant and somewhat formal feel to it; it's not a place to go if you have small children who prefer to jump in and out of their seats and roam around. Open daily for dinner, with a carvery of lamb, roast beef and ham Sunday noon-3 pm. $$$-$$$$. Phone 337-3681. Personal Safety Despite the best efforts of the city police, the South African Police Service and the tourism protection unit, there is no way to fully safeguard tourists from beachfront pickpockets and other criminal activity. Still, the Durban beachfront is far safer than it was just a few years ago. Today, the area is heavily patrolled by police officers on foot, on bicycles and in vehicles, and cameras linked to sophisticated police-surveillance monitors have been strategically placed along the Golden Mile. But that doesn't mean you shouldn't take precautions. Theft from cars and hijackings do occasionally occur, so be sensible—lock doors and close windows when driving in the city, especially at night, and don't leave cell phones or wallets exposed. Avoid carrying large sums of cash and displaying cameras and videos, and definitely do not leave your belongings unattended on the beachfront or in market areas. Remember is it far better to surrender your possession than confront a would-be thief or hijacker. Using common sense will help you avoid trouble: Don't flaunt expensive jewelry, large amounts of cash or expensive items, don't walk along the beachfront or in the city center, and never walk alone at night. If you have a rental car, lock valuables in the trunk, even when using parking garages with attendants. Decline the services of informal parking attendants—only uniformed guards should watch your car for a fee or a tip (R2-R5). At night, park in a secure, well-lit area. The best defense against possible trouble is to travel with a group of friends or fellow travelers. Only visit a township in the company of a tour guide, especially if you plan to go at night, and avoid public transport in township areas at all times. Day or night, women should always
walk with a partner or a group, and if you have a mobile
phone, take it along as a precaution. Always tell
someone (such as a hotel clerk) where you are going to
be walking before you leave. The emergency number for
police is 10111; phone 361-8567 for sea rescue. There's
also a tourist-protection unit. Phone 368-4453 or
368-2207. Good private hospitals and medical services are available in the city and most tourist areas. Although major credit cards are usually accepted, cash may sometimes be required, and medical insurance should be taken out before visiting the country. Parklands Hospital (Hopeland Road, phone 288-181) and St. Augustine's (107 Chelmsford Road, phone 211-221) are private hospitals with excellent reputations. Both are located in the Berea area of the city. Some public health facilities are substandard, however, so visitors should frequent the more expensive private facilities. You'll most likely need insurance or money (or perhaps both, as a deposit is sometimes required even if you have coverage). For more information, contact your
country's health-advisory agency. Don't talk on a cell phone while driving in South Africa. It's against the law. Do swim only within shark-netted areas and don't swim after dusk, at night or before dawn, when a shark attack is more likely. Don't walk around alone, even during daylight hours and in crowded areas. GeostatsPassport/Visa Requirements: Citizens of Canada and the U.S. need passports but not visas. Proof of sufficient funds and onward passage are also required. Proof of yellow-fever inoculation is required of anyone entering South Africa from an area infected with the disease. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departure. Population: 2,631,000. Languages: English, Zulu, Afrikaans. Predominant Religions: Christian, Hindu, Islamic, Jewish. Time Zone: 2 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+2 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed. Voltage Requirements: 220 volts. Telephone Codes:
27, country code; 31,Durban city code; Following years of instability, the South African rand is on the upswing, meaning that South Africa is no longer as inexpensive of a destination as it previously was. Yet it is still much less expensive than Europe and North America. You can exchange currency at bureaux de change offices (available in most shopping centers) and at many hotels and banks. ATMs are widely available, especially at shopping centers and malls. They accept major credit cards and bank cards (provided you have a PIN). Because of vandalism, some ATMs
automatically switch off after 10 pm or during weekends.
For this reason, withdrawing money late at night usually
involves some effort—ask at your hotel or a business in
the area for advice. Always exercise caution when
withdrawing money from the machines. Banks are open
Monday-Friday 9 am-3:30 pm, Saturday 8-11 am. At night, the popular tourist areas
along the beachfront are regulated by parking attendants
wearing bright, neon-colored bibs and equipped with
business cards. They are employed by restaurants, bars
and clubs to ensure the safety of vehicles. Feel free to
tip them according to the length of time you leave your
vehicle in their care. For a long night, tip them R10,
for a two- or three-hour meal, R5.
Comfortable, lightweight clothing that is casual is
what you'll need for most of the year in Durban. In
winter, a jacket or coat may be needed, particularly
in the evenings. Safari clothing and comfortable
shoes are suggested for game reserves and hiking
expeditions. With the exception of a few upmarket
restaurants and hotels, casual dress is the norm
there. South African women, however, are rather
modest when it comes to beachwear. You won't find
most local women diving into the ocean in a bikini
or even a revealing one-piece bathing suit (locals
refer to swimwear as "costumes"). Instead, most
women, particularly Indians and Africans, will wear
some covering over their swimwear.
Communication Internet Access You'll find Internet services, including Wi-Fi hot spots, at most Durban hotels and at area shopping malls. Durban Online is located at uShaka Village Walk (phone 337-1818) on the beachfront, and Kaya e-Cafe (phone 304-5932) on Broad Street. Mail & Package Services Post Office branches are available throughout the city, and you can buy stamps at all locations. Stamps are also becoming widely available at newsstands and small local shops. Post Office hours are generally Monday-Friday 8 am-4:30 pm, Wednesday 8:30 am-4:30 pm, Saturday 8 am-noon. Durban's Central Post Office is located at the corner of West and Gardiner streets. Phone 336-333. There's also a Post Office at the airport. Newspapers & Magazines The Natal Mercury (morning newspaper), The Daily News (evening) and the Saturday Independent (published Saturday only) are English-language newspapers that can be purchased at newsstands and grocery stores and from curbside hawkers. The Zulu-language daily is Ilanga. The Sunday Tribune is a locally published Sunday paper. However, the nationally circulated Sunday Times has a local section. The Post is a newspaper that comes out on Wednesday, and it targets the Indian population. Although published in Johannesburg, the Mail and Guardian, an English-language weekly, is well worth buying to read in-depth news stories about South Africa, and it always features some news and events that take place in Durban and KwaZulu-Natal. Telephone Practically everyone in South Africa has a cell phone, or at least it seems that way. In fact, South Africa's three cellular operators claim they provide coverage to more than 20 million subscribers, which means that almost half of the people in the country have a cell phone. The communications network in South Africa is 99% digital and coverage is fairly widespread, except for perhaps in rural areas and outlying game reserves. Visitors can rent phones at the airport or at locations in the city. You can also purchase a SIM card to use with your own cell phone while in the country. Prices to rent a phone are extremely reasonable, and it is highly recommended that you get one if you plan to drive yourself to destinations. Most pay phones come in pairs,
one for coins and one for cards. A card may be
purchased at local post office branches, the
airport, CNA bookstores, grocery stores and small
shops. It is available in denominations of R10, R20,
R50 and R100. You may also rent a cell phone at the
airport. The kiosk is located in the arrivals
terminal, and it's open Monday-Saturday 6 am-9 pm,
Sunday 7 am-9 pm. However, although the airport is capable of handling international, regional, domestic and charter flights, there are not many intercontinental flights direct to or from Durban—most come or go via Johannesburg or Cape Town. Construction of a new airport, the King Shaka International Airport, is expected to change that situation. The airport will be located in La Mercy, an area north of Durban. Plans for the King Shaka airport have been on the drawing board for 40 years, but the World Soccer Cup has added impetus for its completion. And when complete, the current Durban International Airport will close. Taxis, coach and shuttle services, and car rental agencies all operate from the airport. BusGreyhound Major routes include Johannesburg, Port Elizabeth, Harare, Bulawayo, East London, Pretoria and the Garden Route. Daily 4:30 am-1 am. N.M.R. Avenue, Motor Coach Terminal, Durban. Phone 334-9720. Translux Major routes serviced from Durban to Cape Town, Port Elizabeth, East London, Bloemfontein, Johannesburg and Pretoria. Phone 308-8111. http://www.greyhound.co.za/BookingOffices.asp. Car A number of car rental agencies operate in Durban. At the airport, you'll find representatives for 11 different car hire companies, including Avis (phone 408-1777), Imperial (phone 469-0066), Hertz (phone 469-4247), Khaya (phone 469-4057), Europcar (phone 469-0667) and Tempest (phone 469-0660). Driving is on the left-hand side of the road. Taxi At Durban International Airport, taxis leave from the departures terminal. In the city, taxis are not hailed as in some countries, but must be booked in advance. Along the beachfront, however, taxis are plentiful, so finding a driver in a parked taxi should be easy. Cab companies include Mozzie Cabs
(phone 086-066-9943); Eagle Radio Taxis (phone
337-8333); Bunny Cabs (phone 332-2914); The London
Cab Co. (phone 566-366); and Zippy Cabs (phone
202-7067). All public rail transport in the country is controlled by Spoornet. Service standards are good, if not excellent. There are two classes of service—first and third. Always travel first-class (the tickets are not expensive); third-class is overcrowded and unsafe. Be alert when waiting on isolated station platforms in the evening or on weekends. Although steps are being taken to improve safety on trains and in stations, it's always preferable to travel with a friend except during rush hour (7:30-9 am and 4-6 pm). Timetables are available from CNA (newsagents) and the Durban Station information kiosk at Umgeni Road. Phone 361-3388 for inquiries, 086-000-888 for reservations. Tourist Offices ACSA (Airports Company South Africa) ACSA shares an information kiosk with Durban Africa and Tourism KwaZulu-Natal at Durban International Airport. Travelers can pick up maps, as well as information on events, attractions and accommodations in the city. Open Monday-Saturday 8 am-9 pm, Sunday 9 am-9 pm. Phone 451-6548. Durban Africa Durban Africa is the tourism and marketing arm of the eThekwini municipality. It operates three tourist-information centers. The largest one is located at 160 Pine St. on the first floor of the Tourist Junction in the Old Station building. A variety of brochures and publications on Durban and all of South Africa are available there. Book-a-Bed-Ahead is a free, full reservation service through which you can book accommodations at more than 500 recommended establishments countrywide. Durban Africa is also the appointed reservation agent for KwaZulu-Natal Wildlife and South African National Parks. Branch offices are located on the beachfront in the Joe Kool's restaurant complex, at uShaka Marine World and in the domestic arrivals hall of Durban International Airport. Monday-Friday 8 am-5 pm; Saturday, Sunday and public holidays 9 am-4 pm. Phone 304-4934. http://www.durbanexperience.co.za. Tourism KwaZulu-Natal Tourism KwaZulu-Natal is true to its name: It promotes all locations in the province of KwaZulu-Natal, including Durban. Information centers for Tourism KwaZulu-Natal are located at the Durban International Airport (phone 408-1000), the Tourist Junction, Suite 303, 160 Pine St., in the central business district of Durban (phone 336-7500). http://www.durban.kzn.org.za/durban. |
|
|
© 2009 Fine Things International Inc. All rights reserved. |
||
